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    Only three of six official grand sumo tournaments happen in Tokyo, all at Ryogoku Kokugikan. The stadium houses over 11,000 eager fans under its green, pavilion-style roof. Official tournaments last just over two weeks each, which means Ryogoku Kokugikan sometimes hosts other events (boxing, for example).

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  • But sumo is the arena’s feature attraction, and if you’re hoping to see sumo in Tokyo, this is where to find it. Tamari seats, which are those immediately surrounding the ring, are the most coveted—and virtually impossible to score.

    But the next series of rows, box seats, are as close as you can get. Box seats are top-dollar, but little more than rows of tatami mats lined with red square cushions (with no backs) sold in groups of four—so cozy up, and pay up (¥380,00, or about $279, for a box).

    There are proper stadium seats along the second-floor mezzanine, but the thrill of witnessing this traditional Japanese sport up close is all about getting comfortable with the floor.

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